Tracking Down Lighthouses in Barbados
First 2006 Visit with a Rental Car
17.12.2006 - 17.12.2006
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Back to Back 2006 Holland American Cruises
& Five Visits to Barbados
on greatgrandmaR's travel map.
This was our first visit of two on these cruises.
The ship was to dock in Barbados at 7 am, and it did so. We went up to the dining room about 7:30 to eat. I've decided that I don't like the buffet line, so wanted to give the dining room another chance. (Last time it took us an hour to get food)
(dining room)
I had eggs Benedict,
while Bob and I debated what the loading hoppers were there to load.
They are most often used in the US for things like coal or gravel.
Later Leif said they were for sugar. There were several small ships out on the dock including a large sailboat.
As we were going back to our room, we saw the crew on the deck doing training on one of the 12 person life-rafts.
I took a picture of our window, which reflected the building across from us - you can't see in the window in the daytime.
I had made an arrangement with Leif, a guy that I've corresponded with on the internet who is Norwegian married to a girl from Barbados named Petal to meet him with a car he would rent for us at 9 am. He said that he was bald, so when the other taxi drivers asked us if we wanted a tour, I blurted out that I was looking for a bald white guy.
This time there was a whole steel drum band at the pier and we also had to wend our way through the pier shops and out to the gate. Their Leif was waiting for us as promised. I wanted to take some photos of places that I had missed before, chattel houses etc, and also some photos of the four lighthouses. So we drove out the west coast with me snapping photos from the car.
I asked Leif to drive by some chattel houses because the photos I took last time I was here were not that good.
Chattel houses are a unique part of the Bajan landscape.
The name chattel was confusing to me, but the word "chattel" comes from the English common law. It refers to personal property as distinguished from real property (land as in real estate).
Plantation workers on the sugar cane plantations had houses that could be disassembled and put up again in another place. The foundations were of loose stone. This was because the workers did not own the land that the houses were built on. In the event of being fired or some other dispute they could be moved to another place.
The houses are usually small and brightly colored and have a steep gable roof with short eaves, constructed of corrugated iron. This is to prevent the wind getting under the edge of a flat roof and lifting it off. Chattel houses often have jalousie windows (very popular in the tropics) which may have wooden slats and three sets of hinges (2 vertical and one horizontal) for maximum flexibility against the wind and sun. They are often trimmed with ornamental wooden fretwork.
We saw the first lighthouse in the distance (Harrison's) but couldn't find a road to it.
After several wrong turns, we came to a restricted area, which turned out to be a prison.
The road toward the lighthouse was blocked, so we asked some ladies, and they said they didn't know that they had come off (I assume to visit someone at the prison) without an island map.
We asked the guard at the gate, and he said that if I walked down the road that was blocked,
I would be shot. So I decided discretion was the better idea. So I just zoomed in as much as I could
Then we drove over towards the east coast, and St. Nicholas Abbey, which Leif said he had not visited before. But it was closed on Sunday.
We saw a spider monkey cross the road and I tried to get a picture of him sitting on the ground under the trees, but he was pretty well camouflaged and I can't see him in the photo.
Incidentally in the daily bulletin that we get, there were strict warnings about wearing any camouflage gear on either Barbados or St. Kitts. We came across to Cherry Tree Hill,
and Leif bought us a coconut -
the vendors said that coconut water was good for your health. We also ate the jelly that was inside the coconut.
Then, the fuel light came on in the car, so we had to backtrack to a gas station because there aren't any on the east coast. He just put $20BD in the car. It was about $BD2.21/litre. (A Barbados dollar is 1.8 to 1US$)
Then we drove along the rest of the east coast,
past the Edgewater where we stayed in 1996
and past Bathsheba where they were surfing.
We stopped up on the hill above Bathsheba, and Bob and Leif went down the hill
- I stayed up with the car and used a telephoto lens to take photos of the town.
A police car stopped there too.
I mentioned to Leif that the car registration had expired last month,
and he asked if the police had said something, and I said no.
He stopped at a little house to get himself something to drink (people sell stuff our of their homes). We also stopped for a little bit at old St. John's church.
The first time we went to Barbados, we only saw the lighthouse from a distance. This time, when we passed Codrington the first seminary in the western hemisphere,
we could see Ragged Point lighthouse in the distance.
As we approached, there was a large sign that said "Public Notice - Visits to Lighthouse are Free. If Harassed Call Police. Tel-211 423 7141"
There were signs on the houses on each side that said "Ragged Point - Private Property! No Entry! Beware of Dogs. The Owner".
The land surrounding the Ragged Point Lighthouse is the remaining part of Golden Grove Plantation, which was owned by the Manning family since the 1920s.
The lighthouse dates from 1875. Active (although there are reports that it isn't always in service); focal plane 213 ft; white flash every 15 seconds. Ninety-seven ft stone tower with lantern and gallery, painted white (with rust stains at the top); lantern and watch room black. Surrounding light station buildings are abandoned and in ruins and the tower needs paint.
We got out and walked around and took photos anyway. Both Harrison's and Ragged Point are white lighthouses of similar structure, but this one (Ragged Point) is on the southeast side, and Harrison's is on the northwest side and has a red lantern room.
It is located on a bluff above the Atlantic just northwest of East Point, the easternmost point of the island. On a clear day such as we had, you can see all the way up the coastline to the northern points of the island such as Cove Bay and Pico Tenerife.
Off the coast lies Culpepper Island, a tiny island that can be easily reached. The Barbados Museum was also closed so we couldn't do that so we continued on down the coast,
Past the
at centre of the J.T.C. Ramsay roundabout formed at the junction of the ABC Highway and Highway 5
This has the following Inscription:
Lick an Lock-up Done Wid,
Hurray fuh Jin-Jin [Queen Victoria].
De Queen come from England to set we free
Now Lick an Lock-up Done Wid, Hurray fuh Jin-Jin
It was now getting towards lunchtime. We told Leif that we'd treat him to lunch, so he stopped at the Barbecue Barn.
You order your meal and they cook it and you pick it up.
I got a quarter chicken, macaroni and corn chow and juice,
and Bob and Leif both got the Gourmet Burger which was half a pound and too much for either of them to eat.
The total was 77.50 BD$ We also used the bathrooms which were spotless.
Now we were closing in on the South Point lighthouse - this one was red and white striped. We took a somewhat circuitous route to it,
but we got there eventually. Bob and Leif both played with some puppies that were there.
We went on past some of the beaches that the Bajan's use (Bajan is short for Barbadian), heading for the last lighthouse which was in front of the Hilton.
We could see the Hilton but could not see the lighthouse - that was because the Hilton was much bigger than it was.
There was a guard at the gate and he told us to go down a road - Leif at first thought the road (between stone walls topped with chain link fence) was too narrow, but the guard insisted that it was OK.
It took us down to the Hilton beach,
and there in front of the hotel was the lighthouse, which has been rebuilt.
On one side of the narrow road that we drove down to get to the lighthouse was a historic cemetery. I took photos of that.
After that Leif drove us back to the ship through Bridgetown. He wouldn't take any money, so I gave him the fourth bottle of wine.
I had prime rib for dinner
Posted by greatgrandmaR 13:10 Archived in Barbados